# CamperCriteria

> RV, camper and van life gear reviews and buying guides: hookups, leveling, towing, off-grid power, campervan builds and life on the road, with reader codes.

CamperCriteria publishes RV and camper gear reviews, buying guides and reader discount codes. Every review states who the product suits, the current price from the brand's own store, and any active reader code.

## Key pages
- [Reviews](https://campercriteria.com/reviews): every product we recommend
- [Buying guides](https://campercriteria.com/guides): how to choose
- [Glossary](https://campercriteria.com/glossary): RV and camper gear terms defined
- [How we test](https://campercriteria.com/testing-methodology)

## Topics
- [RV essentials](https://campercriteria.com/category/rv-essentials): Power cords, surge protectors, water and sewer hoses, leveling blocks and stabilizers.
- [Towing](https://campercriteria.com/category/towing): Hitches, weight distribution, sway control, brake controllers and towing mirrors.
- [Off-grid power](https://campercriteria.com/category/off-grid-power): Solar panels, lithium batteries, inverters, portable power stations and generators.
- [Van life](https://campercriteria.com/category/van-life): Campervan builds, beds, 12V fridges, roof fans, heaters and storage.

## Buying guides
- [12V Compressor Fridge vs RV Absorption Fridge](https://campercriteria.com/guides/12v-compressor-vs-absorption-fridge): Absorption fridges run on propane or 120 volt power, are nearly silent, and suit RVers who camp with propane, but they need to be close to level and struggle in high heat. 12 volt compressor fridges run efficiently from a battery and solar, cool quickly, tolerate off-level parking, and are the standard choice for vans, though they make a quiet hum and need enough battery capacity.
- [30 Amp vs 50 Amp RV Service: Plugs, Power and Adapters](https://campercriteria.com/guides/30-amp-vs-50-amp-rv): A 30 amp RV uses a three-prong TT-30 plug and gets one 120 volt line, about 3,600 watts. A 50 amp RV uses a four-prong 14-50 plug with two 120 volt legs, about 12,000 watts in total, which runs two air conditioners and more at once. Adapters let either rig plug into the other pedestal, but a 50 amp rig on a 30 amp outlet is limited to 30 amps, so you must cut your load.
- [Lithium vs AGM RV Batteries: Capacity, Weight and Cost](https://campercriteria.com/guides/lithium-vs-agm-rv-batteries): Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries let you use most of their rated capacity, weigh far less, and last for thousands of cycles, but cost more upfront and cannot be charged below freezing unless they have built-in heating. AGM batteries cost less and tolerate cold, but most makers recommend using only about half their capacity, they are heavy, and they wear out sooner. For regular off-grid use, lithium usually costs less over its life.
- [How to Level an RV: Blocks, Ramps, Chocks and Stabilizers](https://campercriteria.com/guides/rv-leveling-blocks-guide): Level side to side first by driving the low side onto stackable blocks or a curved ramp, then chock the wheels, unhitch, and level front to back with the tongue jack or landing gear. Stabilizer jacks reduce bounce but are not designed to lift the RV. A level RV sleeps better, drains properly, and keeps absorption refrigerators working as designed.
- [RV and Van Solar Sizing: How Many Watts Do You Need?](https://campercriteria.com/guides/rv-solar-sizing): Add up the watt-hours you use per day, then divide by the peak sun hours where you camp, and add a margin for losses and cloudy days to get panel watts. Size the battery bank to cover at least a day of use, choose an MPPT charge controller rated for your panel array, and size the inverter to the largest AC load you will run at once.
- [RV Surge Protector vs EMS: Which Do You Need?](https://campercriteria.com/guides/rv-surge-protector-guide): A basic RV surge protector absorbs voltage spikes and usually tests the pedestal for wiring faults before you connect. An electrical management system (EMS) also watches voltage all the time and cuts power when it runs too high or too low, which protects air conditioners and electronics from brownouts. Buy one rated for your RV's amperage, compare joule ratings, and choose portable or hardwired.
- [RV Drinking Water Hose, Filter and Pressure Regulator Guide](https://campercriteria.com/guides/rv-water-hose-and-pressure-regulator): Use a hose labeled safe for drinking water, add a pressure regulator at the spigot to protect your RV's plumbing from high campground pressure, and consider an inline filter for taste and sediment. Keep the fresh water hose separate from anything used for sewer flushing, store it capped, and drain it before freezing weather.
- [Trailer Hitch Classes and Tongue Weight Explained](https://campercriteria.com/guides/trailer-hitch-classes): Hitches are grouped into classes by the trailer weight and tongue weight they are rated for, from light Class I hitches to heavy Class V hitches. The real limit is the lowest rating among your vehicle, hitch, ball mount and ball. For a conventional travel trailer, tongue weight usually needs to be around 10 to 15 percent of the loaded trailer weight. Weight distribution hitches spread that load across the axles, and sway control keeps the trailer tracking straight.

Contact: info@campercriteria.com